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Nota Bene: Recommendations
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Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, D.O.P.
Mozzarella made with buffalo’s milk is the most highly prized mozzarella made in Italy. Given the D.O.P. certification, Denominazione d’Origine Protetta or Protected Designation of Origin, Mozzarella di Bufala Campana is guaranteed to be made in protected zones designated by the Italian government and made according to strict procedures and standards from breeding to final cheese production. Those zones are located in the regions of Campania (provinces of Caserta, Salerno and parts of Naples and Benevento); southern Lazio (provinces of Latina, Frosinone and parts of Rome); Apulia (province of Foggia). The Consortium, il Consorzio di Tutela della Mozzarella di Bufala Campana protects production and sale, defends the cheese’s trade name globally, promotes continuous qualitative improvements and provides technical assistance to producers and breeders.
Originally introduced into Italy a millenium ago, water buffalo thrive in climates difficult for dairy cows, especially in southern Italy where weather temperatures easily reach 90-100 F during summer months. With an average life span of 15 years, the buffalo does not produce milk early and late in her life, during her first and last 2 to 2 1/2 years. Normally she is 30 months old when she begins giving milk, and continues to do so for approximately 200 days a year, then a break and rest. A buffalo produces daily up to 40-50% less milk than cows, resulting in increased demand and price for products of buffalo’s milk and providing an explanation of why some products are blended with cow’s milk.
A soft fresh cheese, mozzarella is called a pasta filata or spun paste cheese because the curd is stretched or pulled then twisted and cut off. The verb mozzare means to cut off, exactly what is done to the curd; manually, the cheesemaster’s thumb and forefinger twist and hand-cut the spun paste then shape it into a ball.
Mozzarella di Bufala Campana D.O.P. is made with 100% buffalo milk. (Without D.O.P. a combination of buffalo/cow’s milk, such as 90/10, 80/20 or 70/30 %, can be made.) Mozzarella di Bufala Campana has a very thin “skin” as you can see in the photo. This barely holds together a very tender, supple interior; it is not as tight, firm and uniform as cow’s milk mozzarella. When gently squeezed, buffalo mozzarella’s creamy consistency yields droplets of milk or whey. Originally made to be eaten warm and fresh within 24 hours of its production, mozzarella is best when purchased submerged in milky liquid, its whey. This is the best storage as well. Refrigerated mozzarella tends to firm up, especially if made with cow’s milk.
Buffalo milk is easier to digest than cow’s milk for humans. When compared to cow’s milk mozzarella, buffalo’s milk mozzarella contains up to 8% more calories but has over 20% more calcium and is a good source of Vitamins A & E. Cow’s milk mozzarella contains 50% more cholesterol than buffalo’s milk mozzarella. Often served in a simple manner, either plain or anointed with extra-virgin olive oil so its luscious flavor and texture win you over, mozzarella di bufala makes an ideal savory breakfast, lunch or dinner.
For many farmers in Italy, water buffaloes are part of the family and they respond by being loyal to the humans they are accustomed to seeing daily. They are not keen on change, they like their established routine. (Don’t we all sometimes?) Each lady has her own name and responds when called. Intelligent and unusually curious, they immediately notice someone new in their environment. These half-ton beauties are also cautious. If they become uncomfortable or frightened, they don’t release their milk. Therefore every time I visit them, I commune with the herd for several minutes watching them inch their way forward to me, they go back-and-forth, until the most assertive female decides let’s give it a try. Cautious with my black-colored camera and how and when I take their photos, numerous times I’ve seen a 500-kilo buffalo take umbrance over my 2-kilo camera. Once one farmer told me to hide behind the cement pole or he wasn’t going to get his milk for the day! This lovely young lady, we shall call Bella, agreed to pose during her meal-time. A fine example of how flattery gets you everywhere!
