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• September 2010
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Zucchetta: Tromba d’Albenga and the final days of summer in the Italian garden.

Insalata Caprese
Mozzarella and Tomato Salad with Basil

This classic Italian summer salad is often served as sliced mozzarella alternating with sliced red ripe tomatoes. Fresh basil leaves are sprinkled on top as a fragrant garnish. At the end of summer when many tomatoes have ripened to the point of almost bursting, why not puree’ them into a delicate sauce? Have fun with this combination and alternate the mozzarella slices with big beautiful basil leaves, garnish with yellow tomato sauce and a mix of ripe tomatoes.

In a blender, food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade or with an immersion blender, puree the yellow tomatoes until smooth. Pour in a few drops of olive oil, salt to taste and puree’ again for a few seconds until emulsified. Mix the cherry tomatoes and chopped tomatoes together in a bowl, pour in some olive oil, salt to taste and mix well. On individual serving plates, alternate slices of mozzarella with basil leaves. Pour the yellow tomato sauce down the center. Spoon some of the cherry tomato mix along the sides. Buon Appetito!

Keeping Ingredients Fresh

Remember the days of glass jars? Our milk, cream, juices, ketchup and other mainstays of the kitchen were stored in them. With the exception of small organic dairy farms bottling in glass, most companies sell milk and cream in cartons lined with plastic. Most juices and condiments are sold in plastic containers as well as just about everything else. Some of that plastic can seep into the product over a period of time, just imagine your acidic orange juice over a period of a week! Milk or cream not staying as fresh as the due date suggests? Experience mild “allergic” reactions every time you drink something from a carton? It’s an explosive topic that most people are becoming increasingly aware of, and for good reason given regulatory standards for food.

There are alternatives to plastic, especially for storing dairy products, citrus juices and condiments. It takes very little time and could help you feel better and save money in the long-run. Recycle your glass jars. Buy glass canning jars. Some companies are making 1 quart or 1 liter size glass canning jars, ideal for storing milk and cream. With a narrow neck that is easy to grasp, these tall bottles are reminiscent of the “good ole days” with a shape similar to those old-fashioned glass milk bottles and they are very easy to pour from. There are multiple-sized glass containers with glass lids available on the market today, and some of them are so sturdy they can go from freezer to oven without breaking. An added benefit: storing in glass can increase dairy product’s shelf life up to 2 weeks.

Pesce Messinese
Fish with Tomato-Olive Sauce

This classic fish preparation of Messina, Sicily, is so easy to make that you can serve a delicious dinner in a matter of minutes. Everyone loves the combination of fish and potatoes accented with a robust tomato sauce flavored with garlic, oregano and olives. The sliced potatoes can be boiled in advance and the tomato sauce can be cooked up to the final addition of olives making it easy to cook the fish and assemble the dish at the last minute. Grill, broil or saute’ fish and place it on top of the potatoes then garnish with the Sicilian sauce. Use fresh fish filet or steak such as snapper, striped bass, sea bass, halibut or your favorite fish.

Serves 4 as a secondo

1. Fresh fish purchased should be thoroughly clean of scales and bones, but check first and remove any, then rinse under cold running water and pat dry. Reserve. Cooking Method: Pre-heat the grill or broiler, if using, or select a large non-stick pan for sauteing the fish.

Potatoes: Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and cut into thin slices, about 1/4-inch thick. Boil the potatoes until a fork can pierce the slices without much resistance, but keep the potato slices whole not falling apart. This usually takes 8-10 minutes. Remove the potato slices, drain and transfer to serving plates. Arrange them in one layer creating a flat bed that the cooked fish will be placed on. Keep the plates warm.

2. Sauce: In a sauce pan, warm the olive oil over low heat, add the onions and saute’ for a few minutes until fragrant and slightly translucent, do not brown. Add the garlic and saute’ for a minute until fragrant, do not brown. Add the tomatoes and oregano and stir. Turn the heat to medium, and simmer the sauce for 8-10 minutes or until it thickens. Add the olives, stir and simmer for a minute. Since olives add salt, taste the sauce now then season to taste. Remove from the heat and keep warm for a few minutes while you plate the fish.

3. Fish: When the tomato sauce is simmering, season and cook the fish. A 3/4-inch thick filet or steak usually takes 4-8 minutes depending on actual size, how you prefer your fish cooked and how cold the fish is when cooking begins. When done, place the cooked fish on top of the bed of sliced potatoes and spoon the tomato sauce over then sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley for garnish.

Bucatini all’Amatriciana
Bucatini with Guanciale and Tomatoes

One of the classic pasta dishes in Italy, Bucatini all’Amatriciana is also one of the most famous, is served in most Roman restaurants and throughout the southern Italian regions as well as featured in movies! Bucatini is a long extruded pasta, similar to spaghetti, but is thicker with a very narrow buca or hole running through its center. The sauce is named after the city of origin, Amatrice, located near the borders of Umbria, Marche, Abruzzo and Lazio. Location is important because it is reflected in the simplicity of the sauce, being only a combination of ripe tomatoes and guanciale, cured pig’s cheek. Often pancetta, cured pig’s stomach referred to as “Italian bacon”, is substituted for guanciale since it can be difficult to find.

While Amatrice used to be part of the Abruzzo region, in the twentieth-century it was annexed to the region of Lazio. So over decades there has been a blending of regional styles with almost as many versions of this dish as there are cooks! This simple sauce can be made with chopped tomatoes or a prepared tomato sauce but for me the very best is made with pieces of juicy tomatoes. The guanciale or pancetta should only be thinly sliced, as you can see in the photo, so there is a delicious balance with the tomato. All’Amatriciana Sauce is not a thick tomato sauce. It is a light blended sauce of olive oil, rendered fat from the guanciale or pancetta, tomato juice and pasta cooking water, flavored with tomatoes and guanciale or pancetta.

Serves 4 as a primo piatto or 2 as a secondo

*Whole Tomatoes: Use either fresh ripe or canned San Marzano tomatoes. For fresh tomatoes: Purchase 1 1/2 pounds ripe red tomatoes. Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, make a “x” in the bottom of each tomato. Immerse in a pot of boiling water for 1 minute, then drain, cool and slip-off skin. For canned tomatoes: Use 1 28-ounce can, separate the whole tomatoes from the juice, reserving both. Over a bowl so the juice is saved for making the sauce, open the tomatoes and scrape out the seeds directly into the bowl. Strain this juice and reserve, discard the seeds. Using your hands, remove any hard parts of the tomato then break apart the tomatoes into small pieces. This gives you a much better tasting sauce that has integrity than chopping the tomatoes into smithereens! Put the tomatoes into a 2-cup measure and fill up to the top with the tomato juice. Reserve some extra tomato juice for making this sauce in case it is needed, the rest can be refrigerated and saved for another use.

1. In a large saute’ pan, warm the olive oil and guanciale or pancetta over low heat for a few minutes until fragrant and the fat becomes translucent, do not brown. Add the minced red onion and chili pepper and saute’ for 1 minute, do not brown. Add the tomatoes and stir. Turn the heat to medium, and simmer the sauce for 10-15 minutes or until it reduces and the tomato pieces separate from the rendered fat and oil. Remove the whole chili pepper if using, season to taste.

2. Meanwhile, in a deep pasta pot, bring salted water to a boil. Immerse the bucatini or spaghetti in the water, swirl occasionally with a fork to prevent the pasta from sticking together, and boil. *Bucatini boils differently from spaghetti because of its hollow center. Under-boil bucatini by 1-2 minutes, so it will be harder than al dente’ and stiffer, not as supple, when added to the sauce. The reason is bucatini suddenly softens once the sauce is absorbed through its hollow center so think in advance and underboil it so when finished, it will be al dente’. *Spaghetti is boiled to the al dente’ stage.

3. At this point drain the bucatini or spaghetti, leaving some pasta cooking water still clinging to the pasta strands, and immediately transfer to the pan filled with simmering sauce. Over high heat, cook the pasta in the sauce for a minute, thoroughly coating the pasta with the sauce. Add a bit more pasta cooking water to keep moist if needed, then twirl and plate. Grind fresh black pepper over, then grate the cheese directly onto the pasta and…Buon Appetito!

Peperoni Arrostiti Italiano
Roasted Italian Frying Peppers

Italian frying peppers become rich-tasting with sweet-tart taste when roasted in the oven. I like to make a mix of peppers and include Japanese Shishito peppers or Jalapeno peppers. Serve them directly from the casserole at the table as a side dish or topping for grilled bread. These peppers are also great when mixed with beaten eggs, sauteed with onions or served as a filling for panini.

1. Pre-heat the oven to 400° F/200° C. Italian frying peppers are mild but if you include some hot peppers please remember to protect your hands by wearing gloves when handling the peppers (especially if you wear contact lenses!).

2. Rinse the peppers under cool running water, drain then pat dry. Lightly coat with extra-virgin olive oil, then lay flat in a non-metallic casserole. Place in the oven and roast for 20-30 minutes, depending on size. (Begin roasting the larger frying peppers. After 10 minutes, add the smaller peppers, toss with the other peppers thoroughly coating with oil and continue roasting.) When done, the roasted pepper aroma emanates from the oven, the pepper collapses and is a bit soft to the touch but not mushy. During the last few minutes of roasting, the skin puffs up to pull away from the flesh making it so easy to remove once cooled. Season to taste and serve.

Martini & Rossi Rosato Vermouth

Make room on your bar shelf for a new vermouth from Italy. Famous for their white and red vermouths, Martini & Rossi released a rose’ version that completes the range of these fortified wines. Rosato is a red and white wine blend infused with numerous aromatic herbs plus spices including cloves and nutmeg. What makes this vermouth distinctive in taste and color is its artful blending of pomegranate, raspberry, cinnamon and lemon. If you prefer a mild bitters flavor with some fruit in your cocktail, Rosato should give you pleasure. Pour it over ice and accent with fresh fruit or mix it with sparkling wine, club soda or fruit juices.

Spiedini Siciliani alla Griglia
Sicilian Skewers – Grilled Sausage, Onion, Orange and Bread

Summer grills usually feature meat kebobs, whole links of sausage or skewers of marinated chicken. A refreshing change is this Sicilian combination of fresh sausage, oranges, onion and bread. Select your favorite sausage. Make sure the bread is a day old so it holds up during grilling, perfect for that leftover bread! Most cooks leave the bread just as is, but we aren’t going to do this. We baste bread cubes with oregano-infused olive oil to add character making a delicious difference. Brightened with juicy oranges and rich-tasting caramelized onions make this grilled combination a winner every time!

Makes 8 skewers

1. Combine the olive oil, oregano and chili peppers, if using, 1-2 days in advance, cover and store in the refrigerator.

2. Fire up that grill! (Or fire up your grill pan or broiler.) Remove the olive oil from the refrigerator. Cut the sausage into small sections, about 1-inch long. Cut the orange into 1-inch chunks, ditto the onion and bread cubes. Drain the bamboo skewers, and thread the ingredients onto each, leaving a little space between ingredients. Lightly brush with the infused olive oil, season to taste. Grill or broil, about 3-4 minutes on one side, turn over, baste with more infused olive oil and cook for another 3-4 minutes or until done to your preference. Buon Appetito!

Burrata di Andria

Mozzarella is made throughout Italy but Burrata, mozzarella stuffed with more mozzarella, is a specialty of Apulia and made in the municipalities of Andria and Martina Franca. Usually made with cow’s milk, or buffalo’s milk or a mixture of both, mozzarella is a pasta filata cheese, meaning after the curd is formed and allowed to rest, it is re-worked in a hot water bath and pulled like taffy to smooth it out. Then a large nugget is stretched thin to make a small pouch. Strands of mozzarella made from the whey and mixed with cream are stuffed into this pouch. The thin mozzarella shell encapsulates the filling. Then it is closed, tied and briefly immersed in a brine bath to seal. When purchasing Burrata di Andria, look for a soft pouch with top knot that is tied as in the photo. Serve slightly cool or room temperature with grilled bread, fruity olive oil, tomatoes and olives for a delicious and satisfying meal. The creaminess of burrata is exceptional. When combined with its fresh milk and cream taste, it becomes unforgettable. Photo below: In Andria at a caseificio, the mozzarella is being shaped into the classic pouch and filled with strands of fresh mozzarella and cream.

Pomodorini Secchi al Forno
Oven-Dried Cherry Tomatoes

Sun-drying tomatoes seems to be a rite-of-summertime-passage, especially in southern Italy where some of the world’s best tomatoes are grown. In August and September, drive through the streets and you’ll see home cooks putting wooden boards and mats outside then reverently placing their tomatoes on top to dry outside over a few days or perhaps a week. Unless you provide a screened-in hygenic environment that is also free from rain water, it is best if your oven provides the “sunshine” and your tomatoes will be dried in only 1 1/2-2 hours!

1. Rinse cherry tomatoes under cool running water, drain then dry thoroughly on a kitchen towel. Line a baking sheet with parchment or baking paper. Place the oven rack in the center of your oven, and pre-heat the oven to 225° F/108° C.

2. Using a sharp paring knife, slice off the tomato’s hard tip – the top part formerly attached to the vine. (Since cherry tomatoes are not that large, the slice should be as thin as possible.) With your fingers, gently squeeze out the seeds onto a paper towel. If the cherry tomatoes are full of juice, squeeze the seeds and juice into a bowl then strain later and use the juice as you wish.

3. Place the tomatoes on the paper and spread out so air circulates easily and accelerates the drying. Place the baking sheet with tomatoes in the oven and begin drying for one hour. Remove, change the paper because some of the juice makes the paper turn brown and stick. Spread-out the partially dried tomatoes on the new sheet of paper and continue drying in the oven for another 30-60 minutes or until they have a chewy texture and are not totally dessicated. Remove from the oven, cool completely. Store in a container in your refrigerator or freezer.

Photo below: Oven-dried cherry tomatoes tossed with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh lemon thyme from the garden. Store in the refrigerator for a few days and the tomatoes soften in texture. Their taste? Intense sweet-tart concentrated tomato flavor. Add some to grains, potato salads, chicken salad, soups, on top of grilled bread…wonderful. Makes a great gift sharing with your best friend too!